Island hopping in Greece
In July, 1999 we went to Greece with our daughter Laura. We were there for about 2 weeks, with the first 3 days in Athens and the remaining time island hopping from Santorini to Ios to Naxos to Folegandros. In Athens and Santorini we made reservations ahead of time while we booked rooms on the spot for the remaining islands. Since it was July at the height of the tourist season, it was hot and crowded though the islands were much more comfortable than in Athens.
Since this trip was during the time that we used film cameras, these images were all scanned and digitized recently. Most of the pictures were from Kodachrome slides scanned on a PrimeFilm XA scanner at 2500 dpi.
Athens
While our main goal was to go island hopping, we could not fly to Athens wiithout spending at least a few days exploring the fantastic historical sites in the city. The most outstanding feature of the city is the Acropolis, both for its historical and architectural significance. It sits on a rocky outcropping with steep walls some 500 feet above the surrounding city and is thus visible from most parts of the city. The Parthenon is the largest and most prominent building on the Acropolis. The present buildings were designed and built during the reign of Pericles in the 5th century BC, the golden age of Athens. In addition to the Parthenon, the Acropolis also contains 20 more architectural remains, including several theatres and the Erechtheion with its famous Porch of Maidens.
We arrived in the late afternoon and after settling in at our BnB, we went to Taverna Strofi for dinner. Imagine our surprise to be able to see the Parthnon sitting atop the Acropolis from our dinner table on the rooftop. At night it is lit up so it gleams like a spectacular white jewel against the sky.
The next morning we got up early to try to beat the heat and the crowds to visit the Acropolis and the surrounding area that contain the Temple of Zeus and other architectural sites. We also had a chance to wander around central Athens including the market. where I tried to convince my traveling companions to purchase a jug of olives to carry around while we toured Greece.
The Acropolis towering over Athens at sunset from the Lycabettus Hill
The view of the Parthenon on the Acropolis from our dinner table.
The Parthenon
Construction on this classical Greek temple was first begun in 447 BC and completed about 15 years later. It is considered one of the world’s greatest cultural achievements and enduring symbol of Greek civilization and art. All of the sculptures have been moved for safety to the Acropolis Museum though many of the finest sculptures were stolen by Lord Elgin (the so-called Elgin Marbles) and currently reside in the British Museum or other museums around the world.
The Parthenon
Closeup of the frieze of the Parthenon
Lil posing before the Parthenon
Theaters
There are two ancient theaters on the Acropolis: the Theater of Dionysus and the Odeon of the Herodes Atticus. The Theater of Dionysus was first build in 3rd century BC and had a maximum capacity of 17,000. It has not been rebuilt but the overall form of the stage and audience are apparent from its reconstruction. The Odeon of the Herodes Atticus was built in 161 AD and rebuilt in 1950 so that it can be used as a modern concert venue. Among the artists who have performed here before a live audience include Maria Callas. Frank Sinatra, the Athens Festival, Miss Universe Pageant and Luciano Pavaratti.
Theater of Dionysus
Odeon of the Herodes Atticus
Odeon of the Herodes Atticus
The Erechtheion
Probably the most elegant of the buildings on the Acropolis is the Erchtheion with its unusual Porch of the Maidens consisting of the statues of 6 maidens (or Caryatids) serving as columns. On the other side of the building is another more traditional porch with ionic columns. One of the six original maidens is now in the British Museum, having been stolen from Greece by Lord Elgin in 1800 originally to decorate his Scottish mansion before being sold to the British Museum. Another of the caryatids was accidentally destroyed by Elgin when he attempted to remove it.. Repeated attempts by the Greek government to have the statue returned have been rebuffed by the British Museum and Parliament. The six figures presently on display at the site are replicas as the originals were moved to the Acropolis Museum in 2007 where they can be protected from environmental pollution and further theft. Elgin also stole valuable parts of the Parthenon, the so-called, Elgin Marbles which are also on view in the British Museum with much controversy. Such thievery appears to run in the family as Elgin’s son James Bruce famously looted and burned the Old Summer Palace in Beijing in 1860.
The Porch of the Maidens of the Erechtheion
The Porch of the Maidens of the Erechtheion
The Propylaea or entrance to the Acropolis
Temple of Zeus
On the second morning we went below the Acropolis to see the remains of the Temple of Zeus. This massive structure most likely had 104 columns, of which 16 survive today. One column collapsed in 1852. In the afternoon we took the telepherique to the top of Lycabettus Hill from which one can get an overview of the city along with the Acropolis.
After 3 nights in Athens we then departed for Santorini by ferry. There is an elaborate schedule of ferry boats to all of the Greek Islands. There are only a few/day to each island so one has to plan in advance. On the other hand, one can almost take whichever ferry is next to get to a random island and have a great time.
Temple of Zeus with the Acropolis in the background
One of the columns of the Temple of Zeus that collapsed in a storm in 1852.
Looking down at the city from the Acropolis
Santorini
Santorini, or Thera, is the most spectacular of the Greek islands (at least of the few that we visited) and enjoys a reputation as a ‘not-to-be-missed’ destination. Unfortunately, that of course means that it is very crowded. Fortunately the reputation is well-founded as we thought it was indeed spectacular. It is the southernmost of the Cyclades group of Greek islands and is a 10 hour ferry ride from Athens. It consists of a small number of islands which form the remains of one of the largest volcanic eruptions in recorded history in the 16th century BC, during the height of the Minoan civilization. What remains today is a crescent-shaped volcanic ring with steep cliffs facing a central caldera, which is part of the Aegean Sea.
The largest town Fira is built on the cliffs overlookiing the caldera and is situated near the center of the large island. At the north end of the island is the town of Oia, a famous spot for sunset watching. At the southernmost point lies Akrotiri which was a metropolis until suddenly buried by the Theran volcanic eruption in a manner similar to the more famous Pompeiian burial. Some smaller villages lie on the eastward side of the large island. All of the villages are picturesque in their own way with whitewashed buildings punctuated with an occasional blue domed roof or church. Ships arrive at the dock in Fira and passengers then have to climb the steep 1000 foot to the city, or take a donkey ride up the zig-zagging steps.
View of Fira from the ship
View of the port of Fira and some of the buildings on the cliff facing the caldera
A classic view of the blue domes and white-washed walls that face the other inhabited island of Therasia across the water-filled caldera.
View of the town of Oia where tourists gather every night to watch the sunset
Sunset over Oia
Porto Fira
We decided to splurge on our accommodations in Santorini and booked a hotel on the cliff overlooking the caldera. It turned out to be a fantastic place with extraordinary views. All of the rooms faced the steep cliff and caldera and the hotel had many levels as it was built on the side of the cliff. At the bottom was a small swimming pool which was refreshing during the hot days.
Our hotel and swimming pool
Our patio overlooked the small swimming pool and caldera
We made friends with another Asian couple that was staying at Porto Fira, Alfred and Gina, and ended up having dinner with them several times. In addition we also made friends with the manager of the hotel who said he loved Chinese food so the two couples offered to cook a Chinese dinner if he went shopping for the ingredients. So we had the unusual experience of cooking dinner for the manager of the hotel using the hotel’s kitchen. Alfred and Gina were on their honeymoon and liked Santorini so much that they canceled their scheduled next stop and stayed here for several extra days.
Dinner with Alfred and Gina at a cafe in Oia.
Alfred and Gina (on the left) with the owner of Porto Fira (second from the right) at a dinner that we cooked for the owner, who supplied the fixings.
A wonderful place to stay in Santorini
Akrotiri and surrounding towns
In 1967 the excavations that uncovered the buried town of Akrotiri were begun. Carbon dating and rock analysis place the time of the Theran volcanic eruption to be around 1600 BC which is also likely to be related to the downfall of the Minoan civilization on Crete due to the resulting tsunami. Various historians have speculated that the burial of Akrotiri underlies the legend of the underwater city of Atlantis by Plato. In addition it has been proposed that such events as the biblical story of the exodus of Israelites from Egypt or other biblical plagues.
The present day excavation has uncovered numerous artifacts in good condition as they were likely buried suddenly in thick layers of volcanic ash, much like Pompei in Italy. Three-story buildings, frescoes, pottery, furniture and water systems have been discovered. The site is covered by a massive canopy which collapsed in 2005, killing a tourist and injuring several others. It was closed until 2012 and has been reopened.
Excavation site at Akrotiri
We rented a small car for a couple days to drive around the island and visit the other towns on the eastern side, away from the caldera. Pyrgos was the most interesting town with scenic Cycladian architecture devoid of tourists.
Pyrogos street scene
Pyrogos street scene
Church in Pyrgos
Church in Pyrgos
Church in Pyrgos
Naxos
Naxos is the largest of the Cycladian islands. We only stayed here for a couple nights. A notable landmark is the ruins of the Apollo Temple that dominates the harbor.
Apollo Temple entrance overlooking the harbor
Chora, or Naxos City, is the main dock for the island
Just hanging out waiting for dinner
Sunset over the harbor at Chora
Folegandros
With the exception of Santorini, we spent the longest time on Folegandros, one of the lesser-known islands. In many ways it is the polar opposite to Santorini. With a population of around 800, two small towns, and only a few hotels, it is not a common destination for most tourists. The two towns, Chora and Apano Meria, are connected by a single road. Its scenery is not spectacular like Santorini but one can also enjoy it without having to dodge all manner of tourists, guides, discos, fast-food restaurants and souvenir shops. Folegandros lends itself to a more contemplative lifestyle. It is known as the rocky isle, which can be appreciated by the hikes that we took. The hillsides are rocky and steep which require careful terracing to enable the olive trees and other fields to be planted. We also joined a boat/snorkeling tour to savor the clear blue-green waters. There was no coral so the fish sightings were not particularly noteworthy, but there was a nude beach. In Apano Meria there is a tiny cultural museum where we watched a demonstration of making olive oil.
Chora, the main city of Folegandros, sits on a high cliff overlooking the ocean with terraced fields all around
Closeup of terraces and stone retaining walls
The pace of life is slower on Folegrandros
Street view of Kastro, the medieval quarter of Chora
View of the town of Apano Merio with the church of Panayia on the hill
View from the bathroom of our hotel onto Panayia church
Sunset over Folegandros
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